-----Original Message-----
From: Nick Jenkins
Sent: Tuesday, 9 October 2007 1:42 AM
To: stories@westsurfing.com
Subject: Learning Again


Hello West82, its Jenkos and I'm learning to surf again, I would like to
share this story with the family, currently in Europe then Nrth Africa
then to the USA.
 
I had truly forgotten how to surf..after 3 1/2 years in a cold northern
Hemishpere country with great periodic surfs inbetween. I have finally
started to surf again and it has been THE most humbling experience I
have ever been through...ever.

After seeing the surf for the first time in 10 months in the south of
Portugal, My mind and body froze. I stood motionless watching the dark
Atlantic ocean slam into the cliffs, the wind howling onshore, the late
afternoon light setting in. I was truly petrified of what to do. My mind
was going 1000km /hr thinking of Home, I can do this, I did it every day,
i have been doing this most of my life . I grew up near the the coast,
Whats the big deal?
 
Everything was the deal.
 
I'm about to paddle off a cliff lined coast, with no one around except the
wind swept closed for the summer beach cafe watching, and I was playing
mind games with myself and i was losing.
 
Honestly, i didnt even want to catch a wave, i just wanted to get wet
and remember what it was like to paddle. I knew that my ribs were like
fluffy marshmallows and were going to hurt, hell i had a spare tyre hanging
around me and I was well and truly in the 100 club, bobcat. I knew my
back and shoulder muscles were string. How could of I let myself get this
way and not be around the ocean for so long, i kept cursing myself.
 
get out there....CRACK.... I'm in the water paddling into the 25knot
onshore wind, The sting in my eyes was just bearable.I paddled till I was
out the back and sat there motionless bobbing around in the lineup..like
some rouge drifted fishing bouy. Looking back at the cliffs then to the
horizon constantly for sets it was so dramatic I was alone and very nervous.
I eventually caught 5 waves all unsuccesful bar 1 which was the one in
and that was the best wobbly straighthander i have ever caught.
 
After scrabbling up over the rocks and onto the cliff edge i stood there
exhausted, with no physical or mental strength in me, I watched out
to sea and felt so happy to be surfing again but so low in-myself I keep
saying "I need to learn to surf again" everything from the basics needs
to be highlighted to me again.
 
I'm now surfing and bloody loving it, with growing confidence each surf
my whole life is once again changing for the better and its down to that
single pursuit.......I'm out there for sure! are you?
 
Your Learner Corresondant Nicholas